It pays to be a skilled eavesdropper. That was how a boating couple discovered Waddington Bay during their first summer exploring the Broughtons, British Columbia. While at the North Island Marina in Port McNeill, ready to return to the islands after a day spent re-provisioning and doing laundry, they overheard fellow cruisers sharing tales of their recent visit. The words that caught their attention were, “well protected anchorage” and “the crabs are huge and plentiful.”
The Journey to Bonwick Island
Inspired by what they heard, the boaters cast off and set a 23-mile course, traveling east through Cormorant Channel, crossing Blackfish Sound, and heading north up Retreat Passage to reach the northeast corner of Bonwick Island.
Navigating the entrance to Waddington Bay can be tricky; the passage is narrow, and numerous rock islets require careful attention to both charts and electronics. Printed charts at scales of 1:40,000 and 1:80,000 are not extremely helpful for navigation, but digital charts, when zoomed in, are ideal. The bay’s entrance lies south of the southernmost island of the Fox Group, between “46” Islet to starboard and “52’ Islet to port. From there, a straight waterway leads southwest into the anchorage.
Arrival and First Impressions
Upon arrival, the boaters were pleasantly surprised by the size of the bay, with enough space to accommodate about a dozen boats. The rumors from Port McNeill proved accurate; the anchorage offered stunning scenery and excellent protection from the weather. A small island partially concealed the head of the shallow mud bay.
They anchored on the north side of the bay in 24 feet of water, over a sticky, flat mud bottom that provided good holding. A stern-line was ran ashore, offering views of other boats, the island, the shoaling head of the bay, and provided sunlight on the boat all day.
Wildlife and Activities
On their first day, while enjoying lunch on board, they watched a mink darting among the rocks and a raccoon searching for food along the waterline, providing entertaining lunchtime company. The afternoon was spent fishing, setting crab traps, and exploring the many nearby islets. The maze of islets around the bay’s entrance, fragrant with wildflowers, was perfect for bird watching, picnicking, and shoreline exploration by tender. From the tops of some islets, the views were breathtaking.
While fishing from their dinghy for dinner and crab bait—filets for themselves and carcasses for the crabs—a pod of dolphins appeared and played within ten feet of the boat. Being so close, they could see and feel the mist of the dolphins’ exhale each time they surfaced.
Weather and Anchorage Protection
That evening, northwesterly winds of 15 to 20 knots were forecast until midnight. However, sheltered in Waddington Bay, the boaters were unaffected and enjoyed a peaceful night’s rest. If a storm is brewing in Queen Charlotte Strait, only three miles west, this anchorage provides excellent protection from all winds.
Seafood Harvest and Bay Life
The next morning, after a cup of coffee, they donned foul weather gear to check their crab traps. In two pots, they found ten Dungeness crabs, seven of which were keepers.
While cleaning and steaming their catch that afternoon, the boaters sensed they were being watched. A quick glance revealed a Bald Eagle perched on a large rock, observing their every move, no doubt hoping for an invitation to dinner.
Dinner that evening consisted of crab cocktails, barbecued salmon, herb garlic roasted potatoes, and green beans. They finished the day with evening cocktails on the bridge, taking in the peaceful sights and sounds of the bay.
Lasting Impressions
The boaters enjoyed the secure anchorage and beautiful surroundings so much that their first visit extended to five days. Waddington Bay, situated at the north end of Retreat Passage on Bonwick Island, offers shelter, a relaxing atmosphere, stunning views, and an excellent opportunity to enjoy fresh seafood.
