Shoal Bay, Cordero Channel

As Shoal Bay comes into view it is hard to believe that this quiet bay, situated on the north side of East Thurlow Island, was once a busy logging and mining community. Strategically located halfway between the Dent and Green Point rapids and with few good anchorages in the area, the government floats at Shoal Bay are a welcome sight for boaters travelling between Desolation Sound and the Broughton Islands.

What historic Shoal Bay lacks in amenities is made up for in hospitality, ambiance, and unique camaraderie. The relaxed and accommodating atmosphere begins with a delightful attitude displayed by the owners, Mark and Cynthia MacDonald, who make everyone feel welcome, whether it is your first visit or your tenth. It begins with the sign on the dock that reads “Rafting is Mandatory! Please put out fenders for rafters now. Do not hide below decks pretending you do not see them coming. Cool people welcome rafters and then help them drink their wine.” The sign also invites visitors to “Come up and walk the grounds, pick some fresh flowers and veggies, and drink excessively but responsibly at the pub.”

At the head of the crescent half-moon shaped bay are 250-feet of government floats linked to the shore by a 600-foot pier, built in 1927. For several reasons, government docks are not everyone’s first choice. They generally lack power, water, fuel, and other services, and they permit/require rafting, but shower and laundry facilities are available.

Mark is also the wharfinger, and moorage is collected ashore at a building with a couple picnic tables on the deck which overlooks the bay. It houses a licensed pub and sitting room that doubles as an office.

Shoal Bay is well named; a drying shoal reaches nearly to the dock, but there is reasonable anchorage in the bay. Beyond the dock, the bottom plummets from five to thirty metres.

Shoal Bay was once the site of the largest town on Canada’s west coast, from 1895-1900, a hub for mining and forestry. Fast forwarding to 2000, Mark purchased this little slice of paradise intending to use existing buildings as a fishing lodge. Shortly after the purchase a fire broke out and destroyed the structures. The MacDonalds and a crew of resolute friends have rebuilt Shoal Bay.

Mark and Cynthia encourage boaters to visit the garden, where there are numerous raised beds filled with produce along with fruit trees. Visitors are encouraged to dig in and help plant, weed, or harvest whatever is in season for a donation. The garden is surrounded by artistic stick fence and adorned with creative artwork. Next to the garden is a chicken coop for fresh eggs in exchange for a donation to support the raising of the hens.

Cynthia is an exceptionally talented and gifted individual. She is the talent behind and proprietor of Shoal Bay Pottery. She finds her inspiration from the shapes and ever-changing colors of the surrounding area and her creations have shown around the world.

In the afternoon, visiting boaters gather at the pub for a cold ale and trade stories and exchange boating information, while enjoying the spectacular view of the bay.

A visit to Shoal Bay would not be complete without hiking the arduous (5.6 km) trail up to a lookout and an abandoned gold mine. On the lower portion of the trail there is an abandoned shed housing a rusted engine used to operate a cable & bucket system to haul ore down the mountain side. Just before arriving at the mine, step out on the lookout to catch your breath and take in the view of the bay below and up Phillips Arm. The mine was just a bit further up the trail. Mark reminders hikers that it is dangerous to venture inside the mind, and “any gold found is to be evenly split with the house.”